First it is brief:
1. Fan Mountains still exists!
2. Fans waits for climbers and tourists, as during kind past Soviet times
3. Visas are still not necessary for the Russian citizens
4. There is a base for accommodation and deliveries
5. And in spite of on anything - more and more hearts remain in Fans.
So I would only like to add yours to them.
I have felt in love with the Fan mountains at once and forever. Neither Caucasus, nor Pamir, Tien Shan did give so much positive emotions, did give so much positive energy, as Fans.
Therefore it is not only and is not so much my work, and, most likely it is a call of my heart. But let start everything under the order.
The Fan Mountains or it is simple Fans are about hundred the most beautiful tops, over ten of which are above 5000 meters at the altitude point and have the walls with difference of heights up to 1500 meters.
The area is located in a southwest part of Pamiro-Alai between Gissarskiy and Zeravshanskiy ranges area that is translated accordingly as "Fortress" and "Giving gold" - this area till now keeps gold-bearing mines. Conditionally mountains Fanskie are limited to Zeravshanskiy range from the north, to Gissar mountain range from the south, to the Fan-darja River from the east and to the river Archimaydan from the West. Marguzorskie lakes area is often also related to Fans (to the west of the Archimaydan River).
V. Kopylov's range map: http://mountains.tos.ru/fansk_m.htm,
Fans is always attractive for me, first of all, with the fine stable and solar weather in July - August, presence of cols and the routes of ascents of all categories of complexity from simple non category up to the most complicated rocky wall routes of 6B.
The highest point in the region is Chimtarga peak (5,487 m). Among the others tops above 5000m are Mt. Bodkhona (5138 m), Mt.Chapdara (5050 m), Mt The Big Hansa (5306 m), Mt. The Small Hansa (5031m), Mt. Zamok (Castle, 5070 m), Mt. Mirali (5132 m) and Mt. Energy (5120m).
It is necessary to mention that there are a lot of very beautiful lakes in Fans. The most known lakes are Alaudinskie lakes in the valley of Chapdara River, Kulikalonskie lakes, Allo lake, and certainly – Iskanderkul Lake. The most recommended time of travel and ascents in the Fans is the end the June - beginning of September.
Unfortunately, the Soviet times passed and situation with transport in these places became quite bad. There is absolutely not any regular transport and you should order the transport beforehand.
We suggest (and we use) at least two variants how to reach the Fan mountains: through Samarkand and Khudjand.
2.1. Samarkand
2.1.1. How to get up to Samarkand.
Now it is possible to get to Samarkand by direct flight by the Uzbek Airlines and Domodedovo Airlines from Moscow. The exact schedule is set in April. Usually in the summer there are three flights a week that is convenient enough for the planning of your travel. Besides it costs rather cheap. In 2004 the return ticket was $278 for a person (at group discount). The return ticket for individuals - $293. Certainly, a single ticket costs more expensive.
The other way to get to Samarkand is first by train Moscow-Tashkent and then by any regular transport. A train ticket is cheaper but you should take into account the traveler's expenses on food, additional transport etc. And it seems to me that to fly by plane to Samarkand is more economic. A train can be used for transportation of "cargoes" and gas cans escorted by two - three persons from group, as transportation of "overweight" is very expensive by plane (1.6 dollars for kg over 20 kg free-of-charge), and it is forbidden to take gas cans on plane's board.
There is a still active alpine base "Artuch" in Samarkand, that near to the airport and the bus terminal. To tell the truth, the definition "alpine" has remained only historically and very conditionally. At present time it is a base of very cheap accommodation for tourists who is interested in the material aspect but not the comfort. In 2004 "Artuch" in Samarkand was bought by famous touroperator "Asia Travel", refurnished and became more comfortable. The accommodation costs 5 dollars/person for a night in rooms.
In the territory of base there is a planking place where it is possible to spend a night in a sleeping bag, on fresh air. As it is hot in Samarkand in the summer such variant even is more pleasant sometimes, than to spend the night in rooms. And by the end of summer - you can even taste on base's own grapes! You needn't order a room beforehand in "Artuch". Come, knock at the gate and live. It takes five minutes of walking to get to it from the airport and one minute on from the bus terminal.
Certainly, there are more variants of accommodation in Samarkand: hotels of a different level and also the hotels called B&B (bed&breakfast) - private hotels of a very good level and not so expensive ($15-20/person for a night). If you plan your journey for summer time it is necessary to order this kind of accommodation beforehand. I advice you to choose B&B hotel if you would like to have a rest in comfortable, normal, human conditions after all ascents. And you will not be mistaken.
The transfer to the mountains from Samarkand consists of two stages. The Samarkand (Uzbek) transport takes away a group from airport or the hotel and carries to the Uzbek-Tadjik border. After passage of boundary formalities (see beneath), the group is accepted with the Tadjik transport and carries to the mountains.
It can be difficult enough to find the good transport to reach the mountains on the Tadjik side. We use Ural or KRAZ, a bus, KAMAZ, UAZ for small groups. Unfortunately, you have to be ready for any delays on the road because of breakages are quite normal, the techniques all are worn out.
The border is passed near to the city of Pendzhikent where usually there is a stop for purchase of products on a market.
The way goes along the valley of the river Zeravshan, the valley gradually is narrowed and turns to the gorge limited from the north by Turkestansky and from south by Zeravshansky ridges. If the group should reach the rests of mountaineering camp "Artuch" (do not mix with the alpine base of the same name in Samarkand) the road turns off from Shurcha settlement that is in 50 km from Pendzhikent. The transport can reach only up to "Artuch"; and farther you have to carry (about 10 km) all cargo eigher by yourself, or to order donkeys up to Kulikalonskaya valley.
If the group should reach up to International Mountaineering-Tourist Center "Vertical-Alaudin" you should drive further up to the city of Ayni, the administrative center of area Ayninsky, where you can stop for a lunch, and further the road turns off aside Dushanbe to the South along the river Fandarja (the left inflow of Zeravshan river), and after 30 km the road turns to the East along the river Pasrud through settlements Pasrud and Marguzor (the last settlement in the valley). Further the road goes along the river Pasrud there are a few of steep sites on the mountain road, 30 km, and only real 4*4 transport can pass them. The road leads directly to ITMC "Vertical-Alaudin", where your group will be greeted with tea and flat cakes. Actually the way Samarkand - "Alaudin" is approximately 6-7 hours, but it is necessary to plan a whole day as the real time depends on speed of passage of the border, a time for a market, conditions of the road, transport, etc. And simply "Asian" factor - "in heat do not hurry up " - plays an important role.
The variant of the transfer via Khodzhent (former Leninabad) is convenient as it is not necessary to cross the Uzbek-Tadjik border. However...
Earlier there was the train Volgograd - Andizhan having a stop at the station Leninabad. Unfortunately, now this train is not present and "by the land" to reach Khodjand from Moscow is difficult enough. Therefore there is a only variant - by the plane of the Tadjik airlines Moscow-Khudjand-Moscow. In the summer the flights are made three - four times a week, but always it is necessary to specify the schedule for concrete dates as it can "operatively" vary. The return ticket cost $340 (for the summer 2004), the discounts for group is not stipulated. AND unfortunately price of the ticket for foriegners is more expensive.
The transport meets a group at the airport after passage of passport and customs formalities and transfers you at once up to city Hurrah-Tyupe where groups usually spend the night directly in a field. Unfortunately, at the present time we do not have any variants of accommodation of groups either in Khudjand or in Hurrah-Tyupe. But if it is necessary we can organize hotel accommodation in Khudjand.
In the morning you can visit a market in Hurrah-Tyupe, buy products and then drive through the Shahristan Pass continueing to the city Ayni, then to IMTC "Alaudin-Vertical" and further as it was described above. The way time is practically the same, as from Samarkand, it also depends in addition on a condition of the road on the Pass Shahristan. But as this road is almost officially considered "the way of life" it is supported in enough normal condition.
For a long time we could not recommend to reach the Fans through Dushanbe due to some nonstable political, military situation both in Dushanbe, and on road to the north through Vazorb and Anzob Pass. The situation on 2002 is changed and we can consider this variant too. But, taking into account, that the train is not present, and the flight is more expensive, than to Khodzhent, such variant will still be less preferable for a long time.
If your group goes from other cities, it is necessary to specify, where it is more convenient to fly or go, whether is a train passing through Khodzhent, for example, or a direct plane to Samarkand, Tashkent, Khodzhent, etc. In any case we can meet groups in Samarkand, Tashkent, Khodzhent and Dushanbe.
The main thing is that the visa still is not necessary for citizens of the Russian Federation, Ukraine and Belorussia for visiting these states. You have to mean the following: you were allowed to travel through these states with working Russian internal passport or the passport for travel abroad. It is necessary to check up presence of a photo of corresponding age, a registration, validity of the passport. But from the January 2005 Russian and other citizens must travel only with FOREIGN passport.
When you pass the border you have to fill the declaration on all kind of imported currency (dollars, roubles, yuans, tugriks...). The sum of imported money you have to find out right before your trip, as "operative" changes are possible. The declaration needs to be kept "up to the end of trip". It is necessary the presence of a stamp of customs. The sum of taken out currency should be less than imported.
It is strongly recommended to exchange currency in a bank with reception of the proper document confirming the exchange. If there will be any problem in this our local friends who will escort you to the mountains can help you to do that. Do not exchange money independently. You can exchange both dollars and roubles and euros. Before your trip we shall specify, what it is more favorable. Be always and everywhere accurate and attentive, check and keep your money and documents in safe place. Actually it is as well as everywhere. You should be polite and affable with local police. It is not recommended to swear, shout, find out attitudes with representatives of local authorities. You should always have passport at yours own and if you are going to stay in the city longer, than three days you should have a registration. There would be problems without registration. You should find out the situation with registration before your trip as it can vary.
Foreign travellers from any other countries need to obtain entry-exit visas to both countries. We provide with necessary documentation and visa support papers
Till now the procedure (its duration and complexity) of crossings the border in many respects depends on mood of frontier guards and customs officers, health of their children and relatives, prospects of a marriage or receipt in high school of their children etc.
It can takes some minutes (check of documents, filling of the declaration and that's all), or a pair of hours with full examination of luggage, finding any mistakes in the passports, "forbidden” to transportation products, medicines, substances "similar" to drugs, dirty wheels of the transport, etc. Therefore we strongly recommend you to cross the border with a local person, to have all documents in the order, and also to have as much as possible different and good papers. For example, it can be such papers: solid travelling certificates, directions from firm, educational establishment, with lists (surname, name, number of the passport, date of a birth, a post in group) with signatures and seals, confirmation of participation in any action, for example the Championship of Mountaineering, etc. Variants are possible. And all the papers should be in several copies as on road, probably, you will have to show them and even leave some times. From our side we usually prepare different papers from the company "Vertical", from the Eurasian Association of Mountaineering and Climbing about participation of your group in the Opened Championship on mountaineering in technical class which is already traditionally carried out in Fans. The presence of such papers considerably simplifies the procedure of crossing the border and movement across Tadjikistan.
Except of it you should give special attention to your drugstore which any group should have in mountains. ALL medicines should be in the factory not broken packing that there could not be even the slightest suspicions in transportation of narcotics.
It's required the special sanction for transportation of radio stations.
Till now there is the regulation of National Company Tadzhikturizm, which nowadays is called "Sayoh", about local tax fee for visiting area of the Fan Mountains. According regulation, officially each tourist from Russia and the countries CIS and other any countries should pay: 50 dollars per person - for visiting of the area and climbing the summits lower than 6000m 1 dollar in a day - ecological gathering. We every year try to reduce these sums at least at the official level, but it is not possible to solve this problem completely. Usually they try to take this payment from groups in Pendzhikent. However for some years we have an arrangement, that the payment is collected from groups in mountains, on ITMC "Alaudin-Vertical".
I have to specify that these gathering are NOT collected by "Vertical" or its representative, but by the official representative of the National Company "Sayoh". In addition the local administration of Ayininsky area in which territory Fans are also settled down, collects own tax fee for using local natural resources. As to say easier - the local timber enterprise established certain sums, which they gather from groups on a place. The sums each time is vary and can be discussed right on a place with the head of the group.
But we are waiting new "Law of Tourism" of Tajikistan and hope that this point will be changed.
Here are all things simple. In Asia especially, the locals are very sociable, hospitable, kind and smiling. If you are called by them, a tea and a flat cake, at least, is always provided to you. Though they live extremely poorly. It is possible and it is necessary to be friends with them. We ask everyone who goes in the Fans, to help them as you can. Every year we collect from our cases - mezzanines some clothes, footwear from which our children and we have grown, medicines, books and other things. Especially locals require warm clothes and rubber footwear in which they go practically the whole year. Near our base "Alaudin" there is a refuge where shepherds live in the summer time with all their families. You can buy milk, cheese, and flat cakes at them. It helps them to hold on too. Certainly, the children can behave like hooligan a little, but it is not strong also even cheerfully.
In famous 1991 year the Moscow Company "Vertical" decided to build the new camp in the Fan Mountains on a glade near the refuge below the Big Alaudinskoe Lake. It was planned as a high-grade camp of rest in mountains, with an infrastructure, a restaurant, etc.
But due to well-known events, the construction was delayed for some years and we had to correct the project reducing it up to a possible minimum.
In 1995 the Camp accepted the first clients - the Japanese climbers who stood there for 20 days with pleasure , ascending only on three instead of ten planned tops. On a question - " Why? " They reasonably answered: "And what for? Here it is very-very good for us!"
At present on the Camp, which we named International Mountaineering-tourist Center "Vertical-Alaudin", there are:
- Three two-storeyed cottages. In each cottage: three rooms - one room is small with one bed, but it is possible to put the second additional bed, two big rooms with four beds, the beds are wooden with mattresses and bed-linen, one toilet with a normal, excuse me, toilet bowl and the water drain, the Israeli electric heater "Atmor" of water with shower.
- Our "mountain restaurant" with a kitchen and a gas cooker on which our "master- chief" prepares wonderful pilaff and many different dishes. The restaurant is built of stones and its walls you can use as a rocky simulator. The windows, doors, a ceiling are decorated with wonderful woodcarving.
- Two diesel generators usually turn on in the morning and in the evening, but it is possible to agree to turn them on in the time you slandered. They give electricity for cottages (light and Atmor shower), for the restaurant (light) and the lanterns at the territory of the camp.
- There are also the places for installation of tent camp
- A boulder of 5 meters in height that can be used as a rocky simulator.
Unfortunately, our plans to make the high-grade camp were not put into practice, and most likely in the near future will be failed.
In the Camp our representative Mrs Rufina Grigorjevna Arefyev works. She is the master of sports in the mountaineering, and has climbed the majority of the routes in Fans. She loves and knows Fans. She has the right to let out groups on routes. She can give any consultations about the routes. You can also make use the library of descriptions of climbing routes. It is a marvel that it is still safe and sound. But there is no opportunity to organize the high-grade structure of the mountaineering camp with corresponding staff, equipment, rescue group etc. All the same it is the another's country, and it is only 3 hectares of the Moscow ground there. We ask you to have it in a mind at the organization of your travel in Fans.
We offer:
In our plans there is a building of mini–hydro-electric power-station.
Every year we help a local collective farm at own expense to clean the road and to repair bridges, which always are brought away at high waters.
Location of ITMC "Alaudin-Vertical"
ITMC "Vertical-Alaudin" is located very conveniently both for ascending, and for carrying out of campaigns.
"Vertical-Alaudin" is located in a valley of the Chapdara River. It is the right inflow of the Pasrud River, in 20 min of trekking downward from the Big Alaudinskoe Lake, exactly under the Alaudin mount.
From the Camp "Vertical-Alaudin":
The larger map of the valley of Chapdara river here
So, being based at IMTC "Alaudin", you can practically go on 70 % of routes of the area.
We usually settle the Base Camps:
There was the time when Fan Mountains were very popular area for ascents, carrying out of campaigns, and even for carrying out of trade-union campaigns on easy routes. I remember the times when a note on passes were given from hand to hand, instead of being hidden in the cairn! For all those years there have been accumulated a lot of tins in mountains. These mountains of tins are not simply spoil a kind, and are not simply unpleasant - they are as a silent reproach, as a shame to all of us! Each season we ask climbers at their descending to collect certain amount of the tins which can will be placed in their backpacks and to bring it to the camp, to help to clean these fine mountains. Then we bring these tins downward where they can be utilized.
Unfortunately, the local authorities do not want to be engaged in this, and in the near future will not be. We ask everyone who will arrive in Fans (actually, it can concerns not only to Fans), feasibly to help with cleaning long-term heaps of tins and other garbage. And not leaving the dust after yourself, now to speak and warn is somehow indecently, so it became normal for our generation of climbers and tourists travelling in the Alpes, the Himalayas, Pyrenees and also Andes and Cordilleras and seeing the attitude to the nature in these areas.
Unfortunately, we don't have particularly the descriptions of all climbing and tourist routes in digital. For acquaintance with detailed descriptions you have to address in special libraries (where they are still accessible). Below I shall give a brief information on opportunities of the area, some photos and Internet references, where you can find some descriptions of routes of ascents and campaigns.
5.1. Tops
5.1.1. The highest point of the Fan mountains is beautyiful Chimtarga, 5487m.
There is a simple classical route on Chimtarga (2А), which starts from Mutnyie lakes and goes through the Avlodon Col (3Б*, but it is unilateral and it is climbed on the simple side, by foot), and further by the ridge of Kulikalonskaya Wall through Mirali Peak and on a snow dome to the top.
The route is perfectly seen on a photo. On this the photo are visible also the other routes on east slopes of Chimtarga.
They are schematically given at Vladimir Kopylov’s site:
http://mountains.tos.ru/kopylov/pict/chimt.gif
On a photo you can see the Chimtarga Col, 4600m, and a southern slope of Chimtarga.
Schematically at Kopylov's site:
http://mountains.tos.ru/kopylov/pict/chim_s.gif
Some photos of Chimtarga:
Unfortunately I has not found a photo of Chimtarga from the West (from Big Hallo Lake). If someone has got it - send me, please.
Simple routes is not present there. The most simple route passes on the Northern ridge from the Talbas Col. Due to the characteristic needle reminding the Sphynx in profile, this route was named "Sphynx", 5А. But in a fullface the top part reminds a frog very much. The North-West Wall is well-known for one of the most complex routes in the area - route "Solonika", 6B, through a "book".
The Topo at Kopylov:
http://mountains.tos.ru/kopylov/pict/g5.gif
The North-East Wall of Chapdara represents 1500m verticals, there are routes of 5B-6A here.
The Topo at Kopylov:
http://mountains.tos.ru/kopylov/pict/chap_e.gif
There aren't simple routes too. The Western Face - a bastion in height of 1000m, towering above Bodkhona glacier is most interesting and attractive. Here exactly there are the routes of 6-grade. For an ascent on the Western Wall you have to go from "Alaudin" beforehand on a glacier (about 2 hours with a cargo) and to settle a base camp on a glacier in a safe place.
The Topo at Kopylov:
http://mountains.tos.ru/kopylov/pict/bodkh2.gif
I don't have any data about the North wall.
It is one of few tops having a simple ascending route, a fine variant for acclimatization. The approach under the route begins from Mutnyie lakes on a talus and a conglomerate under a glacier, then on a glacier with overcoming a simple bergschrund before an exit on a summit ridge. The ridge so is wide, and longer, that reminds a football field.
The Western Wall extends on a kilometer and looks aside Mutnyie lakes. It is an object of pleasant climbing on warm rocks.
The Topo at Kopylov:
http://mountains.tos.ru/kopylov/pict/zamok_w.gif
Northern and northeast slopes form gorge together with western Wall of Bodkhona.
There are the routes of 5-grade going on diretissima.
The Topo at Kopylov:
http://mountains.tos.ru/kopylov/pict/zamok_n.gif
The most complex route 6А passes on the Wall of Parandas with the following traverse to the Northern Ridge of Zamok.
Look at a photo on the left: all three most complex 5000- mountains in Fans together.
It is the Wall from the big letter. The Northern orientation defines its character. It is always cold; it is crossed with hanging glaciers, increasing complexity of ascending routes going to Mirali Peak practically vertically. And the route on a left edge was done by American Law and it is a route of ascending on Avlodon Col, 3Б*, gone by tourists only once.
Kopylov's Topo:
http://mountains.tos.ru/kopylov/pict/maria.gif
The simplest route begins with Chimtarga Col and passes on northern ridge, 2А.
You can constantly see the rocky tower of Adamtash staying at "Alaudin" and it becomes a habitual view here.
The classical route (4B) begins from Adamtash Col which you can ascend climbing from a small lake Piala for one and a half hour and then the route passes on Northern ridge.
Kopylov's Topo:
http://mountains.tos.ru/kopylov/
The Northwest face with its vertical site extended on a kilometer presents more interest. There are two routes of 6-grade.
A Panorama of 5000-mountains taken off from the top of Chimtarga:
It is not full list of all tops and routes. More than two hundred routes are done, and probably no fewer routes wait for their pioneers.
Here I do not have opportunity to describe all cols, which are done in Fanskie Mountains. A lot of them are from non-graded up to the most complicated 3B. Accordingly, in the Fans it is possible to construct the routes of sports hikes of any complexity.
The most popular cols:
There are also a lot of other variants, which are impossible to list all here. To tell the truth because of the compactness of area sometimes you have to artificially extend a route of a campaign for setting necessary kilometers. However, If you pay attention of technical complexity of Cols, Fans in this sense is simply ideal place for carrying out campaigns of all categories. Unfortunately, on the Internet there are not enough reports on expeditions in Fanskie Mountains. But I tried also to give sufficient impression and the information on tourist opportunities in this area.
Come in the Fans! They are waiting for you!
Come:
1. For ascending
2. With climbing training
3. For carrying out of hikes
4. For carrying out trainings after schools of tourist preparation
5. For trekking
6. With families, friends, familiar simply to rest in this fine Place.
